The Textile and Clothing (T&C) industry is increasingly adopting circular business models (CBMs) to promotesustainable production and consumption. However, scaling CBMs within this sector remains challenging, mainlydue to conflicts in organizational objectives, product designs, and value chain structures, resulting in paradoxicaltensions (PTs). The purpose of this study is to explore PTs that hinder the scaling of CBMs in the T&C industry.The methodology adopted a two-stage approach: first, through a critical literature review, seven key PT categoriesaffecting CBM scaling were identified, and secondly, semi-structured interviews were conducted with T&Cindustry actors for in-depth exploration. By applying paradox theory, this study revealed that PTs are moreprevalent at the product and process levels. At the product level, PTs impacted scaling CBMs both within innerloops (repair and reuse) and outer loops (recycling), driven by socio-environmental and economic conflicts,classified as performing paradoxes. Scaling recycling is hindered due to trade-offs in technology selection forhigher market uptake, lack of infrastructure, and challenges in choosing between local and global value chains,classified as organizing PTs. Our findings emphasize the importance of inter-class organizing-performing paradoxes,which obstruct the scaling of sequential loops like reuse-recycling. Furthermore, implicit belonging andlearning PTs became apparent alongside other paradoxes, such as performing-belonging and organizing-learning.While belonging PTs arose at the stakeholder level due to identity tensions, learning PTs stemmed from insufficientdata, knowledge, and technology. Based on the findings, this study contributed to developing fourpropositions explaining the impact of PTs in scaling T&C CBMs. These findings provide valuable insights for T&Cactors to strategically plan and scale CBMs while understanding and navigating PTs. This is of crucial significancefor policymakers in formulating effective policies supporting the scaling of CBMs within the T&C industry.

Purpose: In times of geopolitical tensions, extreme weather, and pandemics, the importance of resilient and sustainable supply chains cannot be overstated. Despite this, there is a gap in the literature on the interplay between Green Supply Chain Management (GSCM) and Supply Chain Resilience (SCR). Therefore, this paper aims to empirically explore synergies and trade-offs between GSCM and SCR.

Design/methodology/approach: The research is based on a multiple-case study of five logistics and manufacturing companies in Sweden. Our empirical data sources encompass semi-structured interviews with eleven managers specializing in logistics and sustainability, along with information from webpages, sustainability reports, and various documents.

Findings: Our findings consist of four main observations. 1. Synergies and trade-offs between GSCM and SCR arise from various considerations and behaviors beyond a narrow scope of GSCM and SCR practices. 2. Various company performance outcomes can trigger synergies and trade-offs between GSCM and SCR. 3. The relationship between GSCM and SCR is dynamic and evolvable. 4. Understanding system boundaries is crucial when analyzing whether synergies or trade-offs are created.

Research limitations/implications: This study represents a first attempt to empirically understand the interplay between SSCM and SCR. Future research could include surveys and other quantitative methods to further validate the findings.

Practical implications: Improving the understanding of the interplay between GSCM and SCR can help companies to develop more holistic and effective strategies for achieving short-term as well as long-term goals.

Original/value: GSCM and SCR have distinct objectives, processes, and performance metrics, their strategies often overlap. This study contributes to research by providing empirical evidence on the interplay.

In line with the Agenda 2030, the fashion and textile industry is undergoing a transition towards a less environmentallyintensive future, embracing the circular economy paradigm. A pivotal role is played by the reversesupply chain, necessitating strategic supply chain location decisions within evolving regulatory and technologicallandscapes. Literature calls for further investigations into where to locate reverse operations, and on thelocal-versus-global design of reverse supply chains. This study explores reverse supply chain configurations andtheir driving factors, through multiple-embedded case studies. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with 9reverse supply chain actors in Europe, covering all steps of the reverse supply chain. Findings suggest four mainreverse supply chain configurations: Fully local, Recycling waste hubs, Mass regeneration zones, and Fully global.Fully local configurations are driven by low transportation costs and environmental benefits but face scalabilityissues. Recycling waste hubs and Mass regeneration zones, balance local and global trade-offs, optimizing operationalefficiency and economies of scale. Fully global configurations, while cost-effective, raise concerns overtransparency, environmental impacts, and ethical practices. The study offers recommendations to managers andlegislators, while contributing to the local-versus-global debate and circular supply chain management literature.

Although sustainability and resilience have become increasingly important within Supply Chain Management (SCM) the interplay between Sustainable Supply Chain Management (SSCM) and Supply Chain Resilience (SCR) is a nascent research stream. This paper conducts a systematic literature review (SLR) to understand how the interplay between SSCM and SCR has been described in previous research. The analysis of the articles included in the SLR shows three types of relationships based on performance, causality and scope. The paper proposes a multidimensional meta model that structures the relationship between SSCM and SCR and suggests further research areas.

Purpose – The purpose of this study is to explore the antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value and strategies to generate opportunities to capture it in the circular supply chain of post-consumer used clothing. Design/methodology/approach – This study is based on an inductive analysis of 21 semi-structured interviews conducted with various stakeholders in the circular clothing supply chain (for-profit and not-for- profit) using the value mapping approach, as previously applied in the literature on sustainable business models. Findings – Fifteen antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value, and thirteen value opportunity strategies were revealed that hinder or generate multi-dimensional value types. Economic value is impacted the most, while there is lack of explicit understanding of the impact of these antecedents and strategies on environmental and social value capture. From a multi-stakeholder perspective, the ecosystem is emerging as new for-profit actors are developing novel process technologies, while not-for-profit actors are consolidating their positions by offering new service options. There is also an emerging “coopetition” between the different stakeholders. Research limitations/implications – More granularity in the different types of uncaptured value could be considered, and external supply chain stakeholders, such as the government, could be included, leading to more detailed value mapping.

Practical implications – This research provides practitioners with a value-mapping tool in circular clothing supply chains, thus providing a structured approach to explore, analyse and understand uncaptured value and value opportunities.Originality/value – This extended value perspective draws upon the value-mapping approach from the sustainable business model literature and applies it in the context of the circular clothing supply chain. In doing so, this research illustrates circular clothing supply chains in a new way that facilitates an improved understanding of multi-dimensional and multi-stakeholder value for embedded actors.

Keywords Circular supply chain, Clothing, Value uncaptured, Value opportunity, Europe Paper type Research paper

In light of the recent developments in recycling technologies and commercialization, supply chain capabilitiesare decisive for large-scale textile-to-textile recycling practices. Despite this, the current status and landscape ofthese practices is surprisingly little researched from a logistics and supply chain management point of view.Therefore, the purpose of this study is to explore supply chain capabilities required in the textile-to-textilerecycling supply chain. The paper is based on an interview study with 20 stakeholders along the textile recyclingsupply chain, covering various types of collectors, sorters, and recyclers in Sweden and mainland Europe.The findings present eleven specific supply chain capabilities distributed over the three main supply chainactivities of collection, sorting, and recycling. By doing this, the study seeks to provide a more thorough andcomprehensive understanding of the role of logistics and supply chain management in textile-to-textile recyclingpractices. The findings also provide insights into more general industry-related design issues, including thematching of product supply and demand, the establishment of new supply chains, and balancing global and localinterests.